Alexander McQueen, under the ownership of Kering, has announced the departure of creative director Seán McGirr after three years. This significant change is part of a strategic realignment by the luxury fashion house to forge a new path forward.
Kering CEO Luca de Meo acknowledged McGirr's dedication to Alexander McQueen, stating that the brand is committed to establishing a bold new creative vision. This vision will build upon McQueen's rich heritage of exceptional tailoring, fearless creativity, and rebellious spirit, aiming to re-establish its prominence as a leading innovator in the luxury sector. Gianfranco D’Attis, President and CEO of McQueen, also thanked McGirr for his work, noting his respectful approach to the brand's history while infusing his unique perspective. McGirr's contributions were instrumental in strengthening McQueen's connection with London's vibrant culture and creative energy. The house is poised to reveal its new creative leadership soon, with their inaugural collection scheduled to be presented in London for the SS27 season, underscoring a commitment to showcasing in the city moving forward.
McGirr, an Irish designer born in 1987, assumed the creative director position at McQueen in October 2023, following his role as head of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson. His career also includes design roles at Dries Van Noten, Uniqlo, and Burberry. At McQueen, he succeeded Sarah Burton, who had a 26-year association with the brand, including 13 years as creative director, earning acclaim for harmonizing couture aesthetics with strong ready-to-wear collections. McGirr's initial collection, showcased in a warehouse outside Paris, sought to evoke the raw energy of McQueen's early shows. It featured exaggerated neck knits, shearling jackets, and jet-beaded pantsuits, marking a distinct departure from Burton's style, aiming for a younger demographic with a less structured silhouette. His subsequent collection, presented at the École des Beaux-Arts, was noted for its improved cohesion and commercial appeal. The SS27 collection, displayed in Lincoln's Inn Chapel, embraced a darker aesthetic with architectural shoulders, classic gowns with anarchic touches, and distinctive hairstyles.
McGirr expressed his gratitude to the studio, atelier, and craftspeople, reflecting on his vision for Alexander McQueen that blended raw human beauty with the brand's inherent precision and rigor. He highlighted the progressive energy fostered within his team and its resonance with contemporary culture across various artistic fields. McGirr's departure coincides with a broader restructuring effort at McQueen initiated earlier this year, which involved personnel changes and executive appointments, including D’Attis becoming CEO on June 3. Kering's strategic adjustments, discussed at their Capital Markets Day, include a significant reduction in McQueen's retail footprint by the end of 2026 and a comprehensive optimization of all functions. Kering CEO Luca de Meo articulated a desire to refocus McQueen on its core identity of niche, edgy, avant-garde luxury, emphasizing occasion wear, tailoring, gowns, and distinctive accessories, rather than pursuing an overly accessible product range. He also indicated the need for a more tailored internal platform within Kering to support smaller brands, as current estimates suggest McQueen's sales were under €200 million in 2025, a decrease from a peak of €850 million in 2022/2023. Kering's third-quarter earnings report, due October 22, is expected to address these creative shifts, especially given the ongoing search for a new creative director for Saint Laurent following Anthony Vaccarello's exit.
In the dynamic world of luxury fashion, continuous evolution is paramount for brands to maintain their distinct identity and appeal. The strategic decisions made by fashion houses reflect a delicate balance between preserving heritage and embracing innovation. This period of change for Alexander McQueen, while signifying the end of one creative chapter, also opens the door to new opportunities for reinvention and renewed relevance in a competitive global market. Such transitions, guided by a clear vision and a commitment to core values, can often lead to a strengthened brand presence and exciting future directions.